It is Arizona’s ultimate jackpot. No permits are required. You don’t have to enter a lottery and hope for the best. You don’t even have to train to get into shape. Just show up, between sunrise and sunset, with 10 bucks. Take a short walk, come to an abrupt stop, look down and pow!
You’re treated to the visual thunderbolt known as Horseshoe Bend.
Since achieving celebrity status on social media, Horseshoe Bend has become one of Arizona’s most iconic sights. Viewed from a high cliffside perch 1,000 feet above the water, the Colorado River wraps around a craggy sandstone formation in a swooping embrace. For a moment, the emerald green river seems to holds its breath.
Vote on your favorite getaway:See the Final Four best Arizona road trips
Before Horseshoe Bend became Instagram famous
Like many old-timers, I was visiting Horseshoe Bend when it was still relatively unknown. The stop was just an unmarked pullout along U.S. 89 south of Page, Arizona. Sometimes there were a few Native American vendors with tables selling arts and crafts. You’d hike across deep, foot-sucking sand, often in brutal heat to reach the completely exposed clifftop. The scenery squeezed your heart.
Of course, I’m also old enough to remember playing lawn darts as a kid. We would heave those metal-tipped weapons — spears that were almost invisible in the dusky light of a summer evening — toward friends and family. All in the spirit of fun.
Times change.
How has Horseshoe Bend changed over time?
Horseshoe Bend needed to evolve. I completely get it. Once Horseshoe Bend became a social media darling, change was inevitable. Crowds increased dramatically. More than 2 million people visit Horseshoe Bend each year. Improvements were needed to handle the staggering numbers.
Fencing was added to a portion of the cliff edge in 2018, although there is still plenty of exposed, plunging drop-offs for those of us who can tolerate that sort of thing.
The trail was vastly improved, restrooms were added and the parking lot expansion was completed in 2019. There’s now an RV lot and parking for disabled visitors. All positive additions. The scenery still squeezes your heart.
Where is Horseshoe Bend located?
Although often identified as part of Grand Canyon, Horseshoe Bend actually lies east of the national park in Page. This section of the Colorado River falls within the borders of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Up on the rim, the overlook with its trail and parking area, is maintained by Page.
The Horseshoe Bend Overlook is off U.S. 89, near mile marker 544, about 4.4 miles south of Page. Watch for the signed parking area on the west side of the highway.
How much does it cost to go to Horseshoe Bend?
The parking fee for Horseshoe Bend is $10 per car or RV, $5 per motorcycle, cash or credit card. Bring cash just in case. The credit card machines have been known to go down. Also, it's cash only on holiday weekends. National park passes are not accepted.
Parking along the side of U.S. 89 is prohibited. So are pick-ups and drop-offs at the entrance or along the highway.
Restrooms are available in the parking area.
How long is the walk to Horseshoe Bend?
It’s a 1.5-mile round-trip walk to the dramatic overlook above Horseshoe Bend. The trail is much better now, a wide, hardened path that is ADA- and stroller-friendly. It’s mostly level although the return tilts slightly uphill. The trail is also completely exposed to the sun. There are two shade structures along the way, but none at the overlook. Slather on sunscreen.
As with any desert hike, be sure to carry plenty of water. Pack light snacks if needed. Wear sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat and closed-toed shoes. Sandals and flip-flops can be extremely unsafe on the rocky outcrops of the overlook.
Use extreme caution when approaching the edge. Sandstone can be slick and unstable. Keep control of children and pets at all times. Pack out any and all trash, and that includes pet waste.
When is the best time to visit Horseshoe Bend?
Horseshoe Bend is open from sunrise to sunset daily year round. Busiest times of day are between 9 and 11 a.m. and 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. You’ll avoid the crowds, dodge the midday heat and get better photographs around sunrise and sunset.
The low slant of sun that angles across the red rock plateau will enrich the colors of the cliffs and the river at dawn and dusk. A camera with a wide-angle lens would be helpful but most cellphones have a panorama mode or similar setting to capture the expansive tableau that unfolds at your feet. Drones are not allowed.
What Horseshoe Bend is like now
I paid a visit to my old friend, Horseshoe Bend, in May. While I had kayaked through the big curve in recent years, this was my first time returning to the overlook since the infrastructure upgrade. I wasn’t sure what to expect.
Turns out, it was wonderful as always. It was certainly busier with a steady stream of visitors. But the fenced area proved to be a much-needed addition. Especially because Horseshoe Bend may be the most selfie intensive spot in Arizona. Selfies require one’s back to the abyss and focus on a tiny screen, making a potentially dangerous situation even more so. The fence provides a layer of protection. It also draws the bulk of the crowds. People gravitate to it, leaving more open space on the fringes for former lawn darters like me.
I like being near the edge while staying safely back. I know too much about the nature of sandstone and the ruthlessness of gravity to do anything foolish.
The scene remains tranquil and soothing. Despite the throngs of tourists, I managed to find a quiet rock slab where I could sit and watch the Colorado River meander past. Just like the old days. It wraps around a tall sandstone escarpment in a 270-degree curve, a big, swooping exaggerated bend. Funny but it almost seems like… No….it couldn’t be. Could it?
For a minute, it feels like the river is grinning at me. Just in case, I grinned right back.
Stargazing at Horseshoe Bend
Page offers a handful of free stargazing events at Horseshoe Bend. The last one of 2024 will take place from 8:30-10:30 p.m. Monday, Aug. 5.
It takes place in the Horseshoe Bend parking lot, not at the overlook. If you think that sheer clifftop is perilous in bright sunshine, imagine it beneath dark starry nights.
Please leave pets at home since a lot of expensive telescopes will be set up.
Details: 928-645-8861,cityofpage.org.
Find the reporter atwww.rogernaylor.com. Or follow him on Facebook atwww.facebook.com/RogerNaylorinAZor Twitter @AZRogerNaylor.
